tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-85612735134318507542024-03-26T17:36:48.454-05:00Caleb James Chairmaker PlanemakerTraditional windsor chair and danish midcentury modern chair making, chairmaker. Wooden plane making with Caleb James. Focussing on moulding / molding planes, 18th century wooden planes, materials, woods, construction, function, and use. How to make, use, sharpen, and maintain.
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.comBlogger134125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-72692247460834627112016-10-18T10:47:00.002-05:002016-10-18T11:54:10.974-05:00Windsor High Chair Plans From Curtis Buchanan Available<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave Sawyer Windsor High Chair <br />
Photo by Joshua Klein of Mortise & Tenon Magazine</td></tr>
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Thought you all might like to hear that Curtis Buchanan has released his Windsor highchair plans. This chair seems to capture the affection of every Windsor chairmaker I know. Honestly many of them use it as a high stool for setting in. It's just perfect for squeezing into. Almost like a high perch when you don't really feel like lounging. A place to set when you feel alert and want your mind to actively wonder and plan your next project. I think I'm talking myself into making one of these for my own personal use. Anyhow now I have no excuse not to.<br />
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If you want to know more, hop over to <a href="http://www.curtisbuchananchairmaker.com/store/p21/Full_Scale_Drawings%3A_How_to_Make_a_Comb-Back_High_Chair.html" target="_blank">curtisbuchananchairmaker.com</a> and check them out. Also Mortise & Tenon magazine will be featuring an article on Dave Sawyer who made the high chair in the opening picture. Dave was a huge influence on the windsor chair world. His designs and mentoring were felt by makers like Curtis and Peter Galbert. If you have Pete's Chairmakers Note Book then you'll note the drawing of Dave's high chair in the introduction (page xiii). He's a big fan.<br />
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Whatever you're doing in the shop today have fun and stay safe!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-64291194969973076732016-07-05T10:22:00.000-05:002016-07-05T12:58:18.778-05:00Try A Traditional Spokeshave At Lie-Nielsens 35th Anniversary Open House!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'll be Attending the Lie-Nielsen 35th Anniversary Open House in Warren, ME the 8th and 9th of July. If you'd like to try out one of my traditional wooden bodied spokeshaves they will be there along with a verity of woods to choose from. As noted in the picture above the woods are (from top to bottom) beech, apple, pear and persimmon. Also, I have spokeshaves back in stock for a limited time. You can see them in my online shop <a href="http://www.calebjamesmaker.com/" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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I had to share this little fella I discovered in the shavings pile. I don't think I could reproduce this in a hundred years. Might just get mounted in a shadow box. :) Have a great day in the shop!<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-69296988660400926692016-06-06T11:29:00.000-05:002016-06-07T10:04:27.257-05:00Danish Modern Lounge Chairmaking Classes - Learn to Weave Danish Cord<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've recently completed a Danish modern style lounge chair that is perfect for the serious student of the craft. If you ever wanted to learn how to weave Hans Wegner's CH25 then this is the chair for you. It is a foldable chair so when the class is through you can easily pack it home.<br />
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The design of this chair is inspired after the Hans Wegner 512 folding chair but it has been simplified in style similar to Morten Gøttler's Cuba chair. I then adjusted the chair's framing to accommodate the "planflet" weave pattern. Needless to say its a surprisingly comfortable chair. I know you will enjoy making and using this piece for many years to come.</div>
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What will the class entail? It will be a 5 day, one-on-one course (Mon-Fri). The components, including hardware, will be pre-made for you. You will spend the first two days removing milling marks from the parts and creating a finish ready surface. Then you assemble the frame and put on a traditional Danish finish. Starting day three you will begin the weaving process.<br />
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The total cost for the class is $1850 which includes materials. Please contact me for scheduling a class.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-25646069843854306242016-06-03T09:58:00.000-05:002016-06-03T09:58:03.102-05:00Taking Traditional Spokeshave Pre-Orders - Plus User Reviews!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Hello All! I'm currently working on a large batch of my traditional spokeshaves. I've had lots of great feedback on these shaves so I'm happy to be offering them again so soon.<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white;">Here's what Peter Galbert has to say about the spokeshave and a quick video clip <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BAsMBTdmpEU/?taken-by=petergalbert" target="_blank">here on Instagram</a>.</span></span><br />
<br style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; text-rendering: optimizelegibility;" /><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Another review from Austrian chairmaker Bern Chandley with a video clip <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BBi0wDWMILO/?taken-by=bernchandleyfurniture" target="_blank">here on Instagram</a>.</span></span><br />
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If you'd like to learn more or place an order <a href="http://calebjamesmaker.com/" target="_blank">click here</a> to go to my shop. I've got some in apple, pear, persimmon, and of course beech.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggOvkOPrEgzxmsZGnNdMd05des9NTsA86-x5OkiwsT_wm9SouREVGRNYresvwF2EL61dbtb9ewhUIvA5EppFtm9y-_jj1GgMPq2ojz-UTQIUzSQDgLztudszWshXRkWvrXs6vF6D-qKEU/s1600/IMG_6620.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="traditional wooden spokeshave spoke shave" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggOvkOPrEgzxmsZGnNdMd05des9NTsA86-x5OkiwsT_wm9SouREVGRNYresvwF2EL61dbtb9ewhUIvA5EppFtm9y-_jj1GgMPq2ojz-UTQIUzSQDgLztudszWshXRkWvrXs6vF6D-qKEU/s320/IMG_6620.JPG" title="Spokeshave in progress by Caleb James" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">See the use and care instructions for the shave in the next post and here is a quick video showing what makes this shave different than their moderns spokeshave relatives. (I've posted this previously.) This is no ordinary "</span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">wooden spokeshave kit" kinda tool. </span><br />
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Enjoy and Thank You to everyone for your continued support of small independent craftsman!<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-58053481084082897402016-03-17T10:40:00.000-05:002016-06-07T09:59:21.132-05:00Traditional Wooden Spokeshave Use & Care Instructions<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've had a great initial production run on the new traditional spokeshave. I'm nearly sold out at the moment, with the last 2 now available in my <a href="http://www.calebjamesmaker.com/" target="_blank">shop</a>. It's been fantastic showing this tool off and the feedback has been encouraging. I recently had the pleasure of demonstrating this tool and putting it into the hands of many people at the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event at the Braxton Brewery in Covington, KY. It was a blast! You know what I mean if you were there. Hope they put it on again next year.<br />
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I wanted to give you a good view of the final shave after all the prototype versions I have shown here and on Instagram. I made some in boxwood, pear, persimmon and, of course, beech. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh92CQ1CyGTCu9I7DXXB3GHKRzVNyPmYgXCOMfGRbTzi6JJ58z2yb0Rif4EohJLb2-AqJeGvMZm-hgaBuUOktnWHaKF5x1Rtk5CLB3AvVuwpALv4DSEeqOXHniq-Scho9fbMNG4sej92ck/s1600/Caleb+James+Spokeshave+spoke+shave+front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh92CQ1CyGTCu9I7DXXB3GHKRzVNyPmYgXCOMfGRbTzi6JJ58z2yb0Rif4EohJLb2-AqJeGvMZm-hgaBuUOktnWHaKF5x1Rtk5CLB3AvVuwpALv4DSEeqOXHniq-Scho9fbMNG4sej92ck/s400/Caleb+James+Spokeshave+spoke+shave+front.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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All the shaves have a persimmon (ebony) wear strip inserted into the sole for high wear properties. I have been so pleased with this aspect of the tool and the feedback that this all wood sole gives. It has been great fun getting these into peoples' hands and seeing their eyes light up when they realize how different a traditional shave is in use. Hope to get more chances to do this. Next time will probably be at Woodworking in America 2016. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEuBTNbsS6NYo476u3beiUUIan7owu2OWgIKsX2ai2JQyFCI2uuCAzYBHVy-BOvjmRjFdmk-J1Is0FO8x3RO_MuG6ZQXGxCHLhrTRKT7M8Z86SKTnITCHZq2cZRsunOu7rxEbZP4niQsc/s1600/Caleb+James+Spokeshave+spoke+shave+sole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEuBTNbsS6NYo476u3beiUUIan7owu2OWgIKsX2ai2JQyFCI2uuCAzYBHVy-BOvjmRjFdmk-J1Is0FO8x3RO_MuG6ZQXGxCHLhrTRKT7M8Z86SKTnITCHZq2cZRsunOu7rxEbZP4niQsc/s400/Caleb+James+Spokeshave+spoke+shave+sole.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This shave is being produced in the manner that the original shaves were made in the 19th century. All of its initial shaping is produced by machinery. Below is one step of many in the process. All the final fitting and finishing is done by hand.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghNFOGsORj64J9XNAfmxOK5N2XUBQhA2Lia0BTrSRrAHd6eEJblLiTGgmsPFssSN-1kfFsu7pDdRQ6q5TvAdbqDRXXUG5c5sN6Tj1ATHyddN06Bw0yU0NthwGlIv172aTh9mWVVFSKaqI/s1600/Shaves+in+production.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghNFOGsORj64J9XNAfmxOK5N2XUBQhA2Lia0BTrSRrAHd6eEJblLiTGgmsPFssSN-1kfFsu7pDdRQ6q5TvAdbqDRXXUG5c5sN6Tj1ATHyddN06Bw0yU0NthwGlIv172aTh9mWVVFSKaqI/s400/Shaves+in+production.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqrLD1A19n98P4TOre01IlrcgQfD9oDq9GghGDyD2Ub57xvBfdydPv4NXZkd3i8-LgJm6DNYCkyVCHkb3r8xAIHQqB-W5zxlkQKFuc3bTh-KPqPvqQ5eAsR_IbeNrUVneu3OSIkXtqRQg/s1600/Pear+spokeshave+production+run.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqrLD1A19n98P4TOre01IlrcgQfD9oDq9GghGDyD2Ub57xvBfdydPv4NXZkd3i8-LgJm6DNYCkyVCHkb3r8xAIHQqB-W5zxlkQKFuc3bTh-KPqPvqQ5eAsR_IbeNrUVneu3OSIkXtqRQg/s400/Pear+spokeshave+production+run.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Because of the feedback and demand for this shave I have recruited <a href="http://cminihanwoodworks.blogspot.ca/" target="_blank">Claire Minihan</a> to assist me with doing all the final blade fitting, sharpening, and finishing of these shaves going forward. If you are in the windsor chairmaking world you already know Claire for her fantastic travishers. They are phenomenal and there is no one better to set up a tool like this than her. Without her assistance I would very likely be unable to produce this tool with any regularity. </div>
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As promised, here are the Use & Care Instructions for the shave. It includes a simple shop made jig for sharpening the blade, if that's your style. I use it primarily to establish the hollow grind at my bench grinder. </div>
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Keep an eye here and on my <a href="https://www.instagram.com/calebjamesmaker/?ref=badge" target="_blank">Instagram feed</a> for news of the next production run. Enjoy!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN-UBcmwijdIuePDLKE0f-W2awLGgjQeUDEcO7QQWRvGpOz5LGOhymVFOkIzHPCHtPHJS3yoddrWmPSyGZ81zaDH5lgWtKR48ETM84xMcn4aSXToD0s4gpJAJFBBmoZMFM8gm40QxAd9Q/s1600/Spoke-Shave-Instructions-pg1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN-UBcmwijdIuePDLKE0f-W2awLGgjQeUDEcO7QQWRvGpOz5LGOhymVFOkIzHPCHtPHJS3yoddrWmPSyGZ81zaDH5lgWtKR48ETM84xMcn4aSXToD0s4gpJAJFBBmoZMFM8gm40QxAd9Q/s1600/Spoke-Shave-Instructions-pg1.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-McnatwnT9lKEh4T8HLg9Y9YjTDVa54CdLlgkeOuil2SBh357nb28FvbappsKEmew4tEnP3SMD0P19wBLu4kNxteHUYPcnOffytn4g25nov27WmjBLM8gUeGPPN5_EflC2xEAWXB5vQo/s1600/Spoke-Shave-Instructions+pg2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-McnatwnT9lKEh4T8HLg9Y9YjTDVa54CdLlgkeOuil2SBh357nb28FvbappsKEmew4tEnP3SMD0P19wBLu4kNxteHUYPcnOffytn4g25nov27WmjBLM8gUeGPPN5_EflC2xEAWXB5vQo/s1600/Spoke-Shave-Instructions+pg2.jpg" /></a></div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-2599019504916951362016-02-29T10:22:00.000-06:002016-02-29T10:22:30.591-06:00More Windsor Chair Plans From Curtis Buchanan - Plus Videos!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinaTWkrd_QgO9bZryJ6itGeHiYUTF4NXibJAsbGwgM1T4ypetb-UnF2JlKBL_Lw0mx2AqJBUI6mgvKfbnU-_2BEO5Sc9xUfbOsJ8XqoLSqsRQQ0LsbvDFTnxsIBIk7AkSNuVGCpzhWUco/s1600/IMG_5911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinaTWkrd_QgO9bZryJ6itGeHiYUTF4NXibJAsbGwgM1T4ypetb-UnF2JlKBL_Lw0mx2AqJBUI6mgvKfbnU-_2BEO5Sc9xUfbOsJ8XqoLSqsRQQ0LsbvDFTnxsIBIk7AkSNuVGCpzhWUco/s320/IMG_5911.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Curtis Buchanan has been pretty busy in the last year. If you are a windsor chairmaker then you may already know much of this. Curtis started making a series of <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/curtisbuchanan52" target="_blank">Youtube videos</a> back in 2011 on making a comb back windsor arm chair. I happened to get connected with him to draw up the technical plans for that chair so that he could make them available. It was a long process as I am not a professional illustrator. It was done in my spare time - so you can image the improvements that could be made to the process. I got quite busy after the first two plans were finished and it was at that point that we decided to find someone who could focus on the drawings full-time and bring professional illustrator skills to the table, as well. After filtering through a couple of illustrators we landed on <a href="http://www.jefflefkowitzchairmaker.com/" target="_blank">Jeff Lefkowitz</a>. He is a chairmaker and a former graphic designer. He's a real gentleman to work with, too.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif1NV3Yjy4JkyFtELAZikf_J7abvOJQmzZppExg3o7Vih-VfnlsfOzJrfwm9yeiGQzSe6vnGTwKUfoN5uB00sjzq7H0BgXzLv5t5MgL6WNZ9coVHAR358qiI-XLK-3rc0TXyktYYAM0WM/s1600/IMG_5014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif1NV3Yjy4JkyFtELAZikf_J7abvOJQmzZppExg3o7Vih-VfnlsfOzJrfwm9yeiGQzSe6vnGTwKUfoN5uB00sjzq7H0BgXzLv5t5MgL6WNZ9coVHAR358qiI-XLK-3rc0TXyktYYAM0WM/s320/IMG_5014.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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There are now four plans available - the comb back arm chair, continuous arm chair and rocker, fan back side chair and the hoop back side chair. You can check those out <a href="http://www.curtisbuchananchairmaker.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html" target="_blank">here</a>. Most recently, the comb back arm chair has been updated to have 1:2 scale front and side views in addition to the patterns. It has been a pleasure to be a part of this project that brings such high quality plans to the general public.<br />
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You might also enjoy a few recent documentaries that have been made regarding Curtis' work and life. This first one is from the PBS show "A Craftsman's Legacy" entitled "<a href="http://www.craftsmanslegacy.com/legacy_society/episodes/Season-2/(episode)/4" target="_blank">The Chairmaker</a>". You'll need to register to view this episode. It's free and so far I haven't received a single piece of spam. The other episodes are quite enjoyable as well.<br />
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Fine Woodworking also made a nice <a href="http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/114435/curtis-buchanan-windsor-master" target="_blank">video here</a>.<br />
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Enjoy!!!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-46457352210051520432016-02-15T13:33:00.001-06:002016-02-15T13:33:15.983-06:00Roubo Hollows and Rounds Popular Woodworking Article April 2016 Edition!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhytxl2JN5wBucurugp8cy3O6BE0HieTvy3MLpi2UZUFQ2mHRh9DJ-6BPfl5jXt-uKs088dAaCeg7_KRErID5ENM5HK_khc3mQZlF5-PQzLXXTBEyvmp8pDIeaDZoDKek23hYvk1L4gE7U/s1600/Roubo+H%2526R+PWW+Cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhytxl2JN5wBucurugp8cy3O6BE0HieTvy3MLpi2UZUFQ2mHRh9DJ-6BPfl5jXt-uKs088dAaCeg7_KRErID5ENM5HK_khc3mQZlF5-PQzLXXTBEyvmp8pDIeaDZoDKek23hYvk1L4gE7U/s320/Roubo+H%2526R+PWW+Cover.jpg" width="257" /></a></div>
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For those of you who are interested in planemaking, you'll want to keep an eye out for the <a href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/apr16/roubo-hollows-rounds" target="_blank">April 2016 issue of Popular Woodworking magazine</a>. I wrote the cover article on the subject of making hollows and rounds in the style shown in <a href="http://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/l-art-du-menuisier-the-book-of-plates" target="_blank">André-Jacob Roubo's masterwork "L'Art du Menuisier</a>." His plates show side escapement planes that can easily be made by the craftsperson. This article deciphers the basic construction behind those planes. My aim was to explain a simple method you can use to reproduce your own hollows and rounds. I suggest dimensions for three sizes - 1/4", 3/8". 1/2" (no.4, 6, 8). </div>
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What's so interesting about these planes is that they are made using the typical hand tools that a joiner would have, rather than specialty planemaking tools that would be required to make the traditional British and American-style side escapement planes typical to the 18th-19th century. With the possible exception of a carving gouge (to shape the escapement) and a 1/8" narrow chisel (for clearing the mouth), the average woodworker probably already owns the tools they'd need to make these planes.<br />
I think you will really enjoy what is contained in this 8 page article. What you learn here will not limit you to hollows and rounds - you can easily experiment with other traditional profiles or develop your own.<br />
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By the way, this plane article all started with a little 1/4" ogee plane that I made one afternoon while Peter Galbert was teaching a chairmaking course here at my shop. He gave me the encouragement to present it to PWW as an article. I'm glad I did and I hope you enjoy it. Below is a little video of that plane in action.<br />
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To keep up to date with my daily shop work and shop tips follow me on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/calebjamesmaker/?ref=badge" target="_blank">Instagram @calebjamesmaker</a>. Enjoy!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-89572187736470570102015-11-19T11:15:00.002-06:002016-06-07T10:00:35.831-05:00Now Taking Pre-Orders on Panel RaisersSo, I've been toying with different versions of panel raisers since this time about two years ago. I have had a lot of questions on the subject. When am I finally going to offer them for sale? Well the bench plane version has hit some road blocks. Getting the proper size stock is not easy in any reasonable quantity. As many of you know, I dry my own stock for that reason. I do have some air drying right now but it will be quite some time before it is ready. Then the irons that I specify for the design is another issue altogether.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhouOOzPPEcZsHzZ8I5Jz9v7aTF_13fW76onGvaWPJxesl4klfj0wzsIal1dCO96BtFwokoyv3qzA7pi2sARolVMX_uvosBu47-sWzliT_4P4wsNltZmjUu0IwGgL80Kvye7xCT3bfPdDQ/s1600/IMG_5275.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhouOOzPPEcZsHzZ8I5Jz9v7aTF_13fW76onGvaWPJxesl4klfj0wzsIal1dCO96BtFwokoyv3qzA7pi2sARolVMX_uvosBu47-sWzliT_4P4wsNltZmjUu0IwGgL80Kvye7xCT3bfPdDQ/s320/IMG_5275.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Recently I decided to take another look at the panel raiser in a side escapement format and have developed a plane that I am quite happy with. It does all the things I want it to. And, I have enough stock on hand to produce a decent size run of this plane with irons that are available from Lie-Nielsen. I can finally offer a panel raiser!<br />
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This plane is, as I said, a side escapement plane like other moulding planes. It has a skewed iron for making cross grain cuts that are smooth. It is bedded at 50˚ for hardwoods. It will make a nice clean fillet in hardwoods without a nicker.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXfQ47xUxuIMrbxVYVRkkKvom_Epo_O7mEOzP73azos6OFapV1xl90GQrVQPI4OP80v9SZ41d4ZD3Fd3AovpA2XEcYVoeyzhFLrIDGJ_J66A2WyKQtYokcMLhlCljGCH5nLgQQqNwIv94/s1600/IMG_5282.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXfQ47xUxuIMrbxVYVRkkKvom_Epo_O7mEOzP73azos6OFapV1xl90GQrVQPI4OP80v9SZ41d4ZD3Fd3AovpA2XEcYVoeyzhFLrIDGJ_J66A2WyKQtYokcMLhlCljGCH5nLgQQqNwIv94/s320/IMG_5282.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The width of the profile is 1-1/4" with a depth of cut of 5/16". This is sized for furniture panels. With that in mind, if you typically use a groove in your panel frame of 1/4" then your panel would be anywhere from 9/16" thick and up. I would typically raise the panel on the front and then flip it to the back and use the same plane to cut down only as far as needed to cut the tongue thickness to match the frame groove. You can, of course, decrease your tongue thickness to say 3/16" and the panel could be 1/2" thick. This size gives you some flexibility rather than being sized for only 3/4" thick panels.</div>
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Here is a video of it in action. I'm getting a bit fancier with my editing. Now you don't have to watch all the boring parts and both the cross grain cuts and the long grain cuts are all in one video. </div>
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If you would like to place a preorder then follow this <a href="http://www.calebjamesmaker.com/" target="_blank">link</a> to my shop. I am limiting the production run so if the quantity says 0 then you can shoot me an email to get on the waiting list for the next round. I will be offering alternate profiles in the future. </div>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-53975491014414802402015-10-12T09:49:00.003-05:002015-10-12T09:49:34.867-05:00Want to Donate and Help Others In a Time of Need? Here's How As I sit here this morning thinking about all the work that needs to be done to recover from last week's storm here in South Carolina I remember back to when I had more time to volunteer to help others in times of need. I have very fond memories from June 2001 when, after my wife and I had been married for only two weeks, tropical storm Allison hit Houston, TX where we lived. It was a terrible disaster from all the flooding. We lived in a part of town that was spared, so what were we to do but jump in with both feet and start helping? We volunteered nearly every weekend for 9 months straight. We were part of a crew of great volunteers that helped repair about 800 homes in that time. It was a mammoth effort but just a small part of all the work that went on that year and the next.<br />
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Then came hurricane Katrina in '05 and all the refugees that fled to Houston for relief. Right on the heels of that came hurricane Rita that hit south east Texas. There we were, my brother and I and our wives, sleeping in tents and cutting and removing downed trees all day so that crews could come behind us to put tarps up to keep the rain out of already seriously damaged homes. The look of relief on the homeowner's faces - knowing that they weren't in it alone - was priceless. Those were some great days.<br />
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Next came hurricane Ike in '08. I had a box truck for my business that happened to have a refrigerated cab on it. I never used it for refrigeration, but it came in handy when my brother and I delivered ice, water and other perishable food to those in need. Others donated the supplies, we donated our time and fuel. It was definitely a team effort.<br />
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It was great being a part of those things and I really miss it. As I sit here knowing that there are so many that need a helping hand right now, I recall a woman that, when she saw us just a day or two after a hurricane damaged her home, she said, "I was ready to lay down and die until I saw you all coming to help." It's amazing that we can have that impact on others just by our presence. We hadn't even lifted a finger yet. Money is one thing, but being there is much more.<br />
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I am writing this because right now I seem to be out of the loop of those volunteering and I also have family responsibilities that prevent me from dropping everything to go see where I can start working and helping. I know I will catch wind of it in the coming days and I hope to see what I can do then but, for now, I want to encourage those of you that see a need and can do something to jump right in. It's probably one of the most fulfilling things you can do to express your humanity and the bonds you form with others while doing this will last a lifetime, I promise you.<br />
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In view of the situation I am going to donate 100% of my sales on some select planes that I recently completed after filling back orders. Here's the deal - you pledge to volunteer your time to help somewhere, anywhere, and, in exchange, you can purchase one of these planes for $250 (reg. $345) - all of which I will be donating. If you aren't able to give time, then please donate to an organization that helps others in need. I will leave it up to you to decide how much time or money you wish to donate - just do something! Please <a href="http://107.161.29.156/shop/" target="_blank">visit my shop</a> to purchase the qualifying items and help me do something too!<br />
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Thanks for reading.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-55036454557149454562015-10-07T16:27:00.001-05:002015-10-07T16:27:42.126-05:00Modern Vs. Traditional Spoke Shaves <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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As many of you already know, I began my woodworking career as a furniture maker and quickly went to making chairs almost exclusively. As you can imagine, that let to a lot of time using a spoke shave. I have formed a few opinions on what makes a great shave and have been interested in exploring what makes a really great traditional spoke shave.<br />
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Back in May of this year, while hosting a windsor chairmaking class by Peter Galbert, I got poking around his shave collection and quickly settled on one that I have had a deep interest in making for quite some time. It was a traditional shave in boxwood with a blade that is fitted with bent tapered tangs. You probably know the style. They were made by the thousands in the 19th century but any you find today are usually quite worn out from use.<br />
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I wanted to take a moment and describe the difference between these spoke shaves and modern ones. I think great examples of a modern spoke shave are the Brain Boggs designed ones that Lie-Nielsen sell. They are so well known that I need not say much. They function much like a plane and are intuitive in how they are used and set up to anyone that has used a hand plane. They're great on long grain wood fibers and for making final finish cuts.<br />
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Now there are the traditional spoke shaves that are not intuitive to use for the novice. Explaining their function is not simple to do in words. I have a video demonstration below. Essentially the blade has one setting. However, the depth of cut is determined by where you apply pressure on the toe of the sole in front of the blade. The toe is slightly rounded so if you rock further forward you will be taking a lighter cut while if you rock further back toward the blade you will take a deeper cut. Much like a travisher. This functionality makes these shaves incredibly versatile. You can go from a cut that is hogging off material straight into a finish cut, all done by feel. These may feel a bit awkward to use initially because of this versatility but you will quickly realize how great these shaves are. They really excel on end grain shaping such as on the front of a windsor chair seat.<br />
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One of the drawbacks I wanted to address in this design was how quickly all wood spoke shaves tend to wear unevenly on the sole. Some try to address this with a brass sole but I wanted to keep that all wood feel and avoid adding the clunky appearance and feel that brass on wood seems to do. I added an end grain boxing insert to the sole like you would see on a wooden plane. This takes more work than slapping a piece of brass on but I am really happy with the results. This is a prototype shave, by the way, so I promise the production ones will have a centered blade and boxing. :)<br />
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After several months of exploration I developed what I think captures the feel and function of a traditional shave while also capturing the look of one, as well. Here is a short video describing the function of my traditional style spoke shave versus a modern one.<br />
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Stay tuned for more on the production of this spoke shave. In the meantime you can email me at calebjames(at)me(dot)com if you would like to get on the wait list. I am aiming for December 2015 to start on these and possibly completion in January. The price will be $185 + shipping.<br />
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Enjoy!<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-43636235771908791572015-09-21T08:17:00.000-05:002015-09-21T08:17:05.958-05:00How to Cut a Thumbnail Profile on a TabletopRecently I was finishing up another short run of ogee planes and decided to make a few thumbnail planes that I have had on my "to do" list, as well. It also gave me a chance to explain how this plane can be used. I shot a short video to show the general process.<br />
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This thumbnail plane is technically a "Roman" profile and not really "Grecian". That is to say that the arch of the curved profile is not elliptical. However because of the way the arch is laid out on the plane, changing the spring angle can give you an elliptical appearance to the profile. Holding the plane at about 30˚ will give you a more true Roman profile while holding the plane at about 25˚ will result in more of a Grecian or elliptical appearance. It may not seem obvious but if you held the plane and used it you would see the results and why you can achieve this with a simple change.<br />
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Here is the video below. I think the only thing I might add to this video that I didn't mention is that you may want to back up the cross grain cuts if you experence exaggerated blow out on the lower portion of the profile. If it is large blow out then it may not get planed away when making the long grain cuts. If that's the case, just place a block of wood equal in thickness to support the wood behind the cut and you will be fine.<br />
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Enjoy!<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-6729207315127881962015-08-30T14:53:00.000-05:002015-08-30T14:53:57.400-05:00Where to Buy Quarter Sawn American Beech for Planes - UPDATE<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I have some pretty great news for all you out there that have been hunting down quarter sawn beech for planemaking. Usually if you can even find QS beech it is usually sold in large quantities at some random sawyer that has no clue what you are wanting to do with it. When you tell you him you don't want 500-1000 bf of it in the green you can hear him rolling his eyes over the phone. He's too nice to just hang up but he's ready to get off the phone and get back to trying to make some money. </div>
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I know your pain. I spent a lot of time and energy getting what I work with. Maybe someday we'll all have a simpler source than practically going and cutting the tree down ourselves and drying it. Well that someday just got a little closer. Isaac Smith over at <a href="http://www.blackburntools.com/new-tools/wood/am-beech-planes/index.html" target="_blank">Blackburn Tools</a> has just acquired a large section of QS beech that looks fantastic in the photos I've seen. He is guaranteeing the quality of the wood which is a plus. I consider his prices quite fair considering it is cut to rough size and you can purchase in such a small quantity. (as of 8/27/15)</div>
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On behalf of all the aspiring planemakers out there Isaac I say "thank you." Very nice to see you offering this and I hope you keep doing so. Spread the word so that Isaac makes this worth his time and will keep it up!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-8539651238995152562015-08-24T14:35:00.002-05:002015-08-24T14:35:19.754-05:00How to Heat Treat Tool Steel for the Hobbyist Tool MakerAs I finish up an article for Popular Woodworking on making Roubo's Hollows and Rounds, one of the things I realized I would like to have more room to talk about is heat treating. The volume of material on the subject can make it seem like an overwhelming obstacle when it comes to making your own tools. But, trust me, it is not as challenging as it seems.<br />
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Heat treating O1 tool steel, in principle, is quite simple. Hardening the steel is not much more than bringing it to critical temperature (1450˚-1500˚), quenching it in vegetable oil followed by tempering in a 400° oven for one hour. The real challenge lies in minimizing warpage.</div>
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The key to success is heating your steel evenly. Creating an enclosure with something such as fire brick will help you achieve this. The enclosure will act to both block the wind and keep the heat more evenly distributed around the steel. You want the heat from the torch to really envelope the steel, so that means smaller is probably better.</div>
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For your heat source, a simple MAPP gas torch will work for most hobbyist applications. This will heat treat 1/8" x 1/2" sizes quite well. It will work on larger pieces if you use careful manipulation of the steel in the flame, from my experience. MAPP gas can heat the steel very quickly - but that is not what you want to do! Remember that even heating of the steel will minimize warpage - so take it slow. If one side is hotter than the other when you quench it in the oil, it will warp. So, again, heat <b>slowly</b>. </div>
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There are a few methods that will help you determine when you have reached critical temperature. Avoid relying on color to determine temperature since ambient light will affect what color you see. Just like a flashlight appears brighter at night than in daylight, so too color alone in changing light conditions can be deceptive. The simplest way to check that you have reached critical temperature is to use a magnet since O1 tool steel looses its magnetism at approximately this temperature. Below is a short video on how to do this.</div>
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Another option is to watch the surface quality of the steel. It will change when critical temperature is reached because the carbon begins to flow within the steel and some decarburization takes place at the surface, thus changing how it looks. It can be described as the steel “sweating” or having a “flushed” appearance. This can take practice to train your eye to see this. The extent to which it occurs also depends on how clean the surface of the steel is and how much oxygen is present. Its best to start with the magnet method and then once you learn what it should look like then you can switch to just doing it by eye. Larry Williams of Old Street Tools has a great video showing what this looks like.</div>
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Just as even heating is critical to minimizing warpage, even quenching is essential. Once critical temperature is reached, quench the steel in oil by plunging the blade straight down vertically, not leaning to one side or the other. Plunging down with the blade leaning will cause one side to cool more quickly than the other and warpage will occur. Don't swirl it in the oil, either. That will also cause one side to cool more quickly than the other. Just plunge straight down. </div>
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WARNING: Do not put your hand directly above the oil when you quench your blade. The heat of the steel may cause a small flare up of the oil, burning whatever is in it's path. It is always best to do this outside, well away from any wood shavings, and have a fire extinguisher on hand. Better safe than sorry.</div>
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After quenching immediately move the blade to your oven to temper for one hour at 400˚. This will leave you with a hardness of around 62Rc. Plenty good for any woodworking application.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-82205740862239889402015-07-28T13:11:00.000-05:002015-07-28T13:11:31.451-05:00Peter Galbert Demonstrates How to Refine a Windsor Chair Seat Using a Claire Minihan Travisher<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This is probably my favorite video of the the series I have posted on carving a windsor chair seat. It is just great to see the process and learn so much so quickly. Here Peter refines the shape of the seat. He has already adzed the bulk of the material away and followed it with an inshave/scorp as was shown in the previous video posts.</div>
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Warning! This video sounds like a paid advertisement for Claire Minihan's travisher. Sorry about that but they are really that good. If you happen to want one you can contact her at <span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px; text-align: center;">cminihanwoodworking@gmail.com or visit her site <a href="http://cminihanwoodworks.blogspot.com/p/travishers_26.html" target="_blank">here</a>. I of course don't make a dime off any sales she makes. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px; text-align: center;">Enjoy!</span></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-33521479353816852672015-07-06T17:02:00.000-05:002015-07-06T17:02:06.815-05:00How to Carve a Windsor Chair Seat with an Inshave or ScorpHere is the next step to the process of shaping and carving a windsor chair seat. This follows up the adze work in the last video I posted. This was taken while Peter Galbert was teaching how to make the chairs from his book at my shop a few months back. Peter here makes the process look easy as always. This is a watch and learn kinda video. Not too long but you get the gist. I hope you enjoy it!<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com362tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-6882156483239165222015-06-26T09:19:00.005-05:002015-06-26T09:19:47.512-05:00Windsor Chair Seat Carving Video with Peter Galbert - How to Use an Adze - Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I promised to post video of Peter giving instruction on carving a seat during the class we had back in May. As you'll see, it all starts with the adze. Peter and <a href="http://timmanneychairmaker.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Tim Manney</a> collaborated to develop an adze specifically for carving seats (although it would also work just fine for bowls, etc.). I highly recommend it. I already owned an old school adze, but after giving Tim's a go I had to have one. It is so light and effective. I don't think his wait list is super long right now so if you need one it might be a good time to <a href="http://timmanneychairmaker.blogspot.com/p/tapered-reamers.html" target="_blank">contact him</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRaN5NWzK9bHseWU7ToM5td2iBZXAujq_EfRlfrHT7HdKaRVAqP7e4sCysTIlm30ym4VOo0L1xgWCc7mG7tujZjdulDdV5jTsUL2fGTXgiR957xnnx5jRTzs1jZSDuUV0NJe26N0-8ANA/s1600/IMG_0154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRaN5NWzK9bHseWU7ToM5td2iBZXAujq_EfRlfrHT7HdKaRVAqP7e4sCysTIlm30ym4VOo0L1xgWCc7mG7tujZjdulDdV5jTsUL2fGTXgiR957xnnx5jRTzs1jZSDuUV0NJe26N0-8ANA/s320/IMG_0154.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Anyway, Peter does a nice job of explaining the function and use of an adze in this video. Enjoy!</div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-24024678808158780192015-06-19T10:19:00.001-05:002015-06-19T10:19:50.921-05:00Roubo's Irons Don't Taper??!!!I am flabbergasted. What is up with this? Roubo's irons don't taper?!!!<br />
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There I was, just flipping through the several pages of planes in <a href="http://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/l-art-du-menuisier-the-book-of-plates" target="_blank">The Book of Plates</a> that LAP produced - as I do just about every day, it seems. (I tell ya, this book is worth its weight in gold to me.) So, this particular day, I was meticulously studying the plane irons because I am delving further into making planes that are based on Roubo's drawings. I'll actually be contributing an article to Popular Woodworking in the near future on this subject. I promise that all of you aspiring planemakers out there will love it. It doesn't require any specialized tools and they are very simple to make.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIVPQ4tLfaLjRzxYRupKj3NHb-EpacjfT1n-Kd-z7e7RXC-ITsuM4Cxf4a8pt0zNwIw64DvSillSE9-y4CRg6HlPZC0D5iUiEOXzu0ySQ2lQC9wpa2o9Ssm8LG-vk8bp-P8NcQibL2e_0/s1600/IMG_0138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIVPQ4tLfaLjRzxYRupKj3NHb-EpacjfT1n-Kd-z7e7RXC-ITsuM4Cxf4a8pt0zNwIw64DvSillSE9-y4CRg6HlPZC0D5iUiEOXzu0ySQ2lQC9wpa2o9Ssm8LG-vk8bp-P8NcQibL2e_0/s320/IMG_0138.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roubo style plane based on the Book of Plates</td></tr>
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Anyway, I have been trying to decide how I wanted to go about making the irons. I just assumed that his irons were tapered from thick at the cutting edge to thinner at the opposite end. Then I just happened to flip to some pages showing some of his earlier drawings and BAM! there it was - a side view of the irons clearly showing both the bench plane and the side escapement plane with parallel thickness irons! No taper!<br />
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I know what you are thinking, "He just didn't draw the subtle taper of the irons." This is possible, but he clearly knew how to draw a tapered iron because the plow plane irons on plate 16 are clearly tapered. However, the irons shown on plate 13 are not tapered even the slightest.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQZIu8j08c02b_xzESOOC9EESqUXDqtjd2BRlDRf_ggSa85GLOQciHujeWyT35YS-I7y-kr87F3lVfW790WaHV97T2wrVSoNtK5mHWnvYTgjMeGmNjg-9Co1UYjesGEu6vAWODIFAkKpQ/s1600/Roubo+plate+13+irons+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQZIu8j08c02b_xzESOOC9EESqUXDqtjd2BRlDRf_ggSa85GLOQciHujeWyT35YS-I7y-kr87F3lVfW790WaHV97T2wrVSoNtK5mHWnvYTgjMeGmNjg-9Co1UYjesGEu6vAWODIFAkKpQ/s320/Roubo+plate+13+irons+1.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roubo - Plate 13</td></tr>
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<br />This sort of rocked everything that I assumed about antique irons. Most of those I know who think on this subject believe that the irons were tapered to save metal. So what is going on here? Could it be that the tapered irons of the British and American planes were made that way because it, in fact, added functional value? I believe this is the case. I think this actually gives reason to believe that the added functional value of tapered irons wasn't just an unintended benefit of a frugal planemaker. Maybe it was an accidental discovery, but continuation of the practice was surely intentional. After all, if the reason was only to save metal, then why would the planes Roubo knew of have even-thickness irons from toe to heel? Wouldn't they be interested in saving iron too? Wasn't it just as expensive for them at the time? And, wouldn't it be more difficult for a blacksmith to make an even-thickness iron? Lots of unanswered questions here, but I wanted to share my findings with you all. I personally hate to speculate too much, but it is interesting, nonetheless.<br />
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One thing is answered, though: I have wondered why there was a sneck on his irons. This explains it! I am still sold on tapered irons, but this gives some food for thought.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-62268452683182004382015-06-15T15:20:00.001-05:002015-06-15T15:20:16.983-05:00The Evolution of the Panel Raising Plane, à la Caleb James<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq_GJsAX1pER8DsxMpv-1CyvYPSklNHdvT0hfM_bG6cnkMieGlFQIphCQj57zDaB3z_vhfUEKuFNBPURxERQamDXUYsPooW-3NPIZinNra6EIycGpiHcdkQuFnL0WSaexgvC3aTvmym2I/s1600/IMG_1018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq_GJsAX1pER8DsxMpv-1CyvYPSklNHdvT0hfM_bG6cnkMieGlFQIphCQj57zDaB3z_vhfUEKuFNBPURxERQamDXUYsPooW-3NPIZinNra6EIycGpiHcdkQuFnL0WSaexgvC3aTvmym2I/s320/IMG_1018.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I have been enamored by the panel raising plane ever since I watched Roy Underhill use one in The Woodwright's Shop episode entitled <a href="http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/watch-on-line/2012-2013-episodes/" target="_blank">Raising Panel-Zona</a>. I saw that plane and decided I had to make one. So I did. If you were a reader back in October 2013, you may remember the <a href="http://kapeldesigns.blogspot.com/2013/10/fun-with-raised-door-panel-planes-at.html" target="_blank">post</a> in which I talked about that first one I made. Ironically, <a href="http://edwardsmountainwoodworks.com/pls/htmldb/f?p=EMW_8329:HOME:0" target="_blank">Bill Anderson</a> came out with an article on making a raised panel plane in Popular Woodworking magazine about 3 days later. Bill is a great resource for restoring vintage planes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFGRlJnkha10fdMy4gKhs5PgJ3i_0v0oh_Y4r8i_mfgM41L1eR0vj4BNbYKPUk5FhhXsaJVIwBodAseZcEOmuQ0-C4tpI7h1qJqXZLQix9NE7NYSIY8ZaIPOvytAEUk0MqcIbvHyYJVKo/s1600/IMG_1004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFGRlJnkha10fdMy4gKhs5PgJ3i_0v0oh_Y4r8i_mfgM41L1eR0vj4BNbYKPUk5FhhXsaJVIwBodAseZcEOmuQ0-C4tpI7h1qJqXZLQix9NE7NYSIY8ZaIPOvytAEUk0MqcIbvHyYJVKo/s320/IMG_1004.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The version I made turned out pretty well, but the profile was based on what you would see on a router bit common today. As it turns out, modern router bits don't really reflect the profiles found on antique furniture. This is no surprise, really, seeing as modern day bits are made for architectural work like kitchen cabinets, shutters, full size doors or the like. The scale is a bit large. I could tell something wasn't quite right about it for furniture, and so the plane never went to production. I had to get the profile proportions just right first.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ld6sYxRjJi1wQRvAmmKO5n0BboClOYRcia55Ks8ToIMOY4h1WeEwbIphog8eVuyky5BYWlc0qr2WfWDMu244xx4ZkYTPOzR1fAAttazxgI5tLftfZ-gMdmd2Q-C3-xcbm-xwA9p3bBw/s1600/IMG_1009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ld6sYxRjJi1wQRvAmmKO5n0BboClOYRcia55Ks8ToIMOY4h1WeEwbIphog8eVuyky5BYWlc0qr2WfWDMu244xx4ZkYTPOzR1fAAttazxgI5tLftfZ-gMdmd2Q-C3-xcbm-xwA9p3bBw/s320/IMG_1009.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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About a year later I visited <a href="http://www.winterthur.org/" target="_blank">Winterthur</a> and was able to look at a couple of pieces there. I could see that the scale was, in fact, smaller on those planes and it helped me nail down the proportions that look correct for a furniture piece.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPOURW7fkxyR4ihepAr7K28qJh5c-j479MmDJjla7lkPPPi1ZVu0CidAUyFIgc3KT_pykG8I3qcVSZKX8rPrEOr0tJhVuin6-xjJPIkZTHXhXmIZ4jLDozRDUbOOS9KrJXGmqI6ZqIAXE/s1600/IMG_1000.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPOURW7fkxyR4ihepAr7K28qJh5c-j479MmDJjla7lkPPPi1ZVu0CidAUyFIgc3KT_pykG8I3qcVSZKX8rPrEOr0tJhVuin6-xjJPIkZTHXhXmIZ4jLDozRDUbOOS9KrJXGmqI6ZqIAXE/s320/IMG_1000.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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About 6 months later I ran into Roy Underhill at a Lie-Nielsen hand tool event where I was demonstrating some of my planes. I showed Roy the updated panel raiser that he inspired me to make and, the next day, he brought the actual ones from the show. It was a real treat! The proportions and skew from the two planes he brought were different, but not completely. Interestingly, my plane's profile and skew proportions were nearly an average of the two. Needless to say, I felt I was on the right track after that.<br />
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But, I wanted to take it a step further. Why not make it even more authentic with a blacksmith-forged, laminated iron? I think most would agree that there are few people who know how that iron should be made better than Peter Ross. He did, after all, study the tool chest of Benjamin Seaton 1797 and all the iron work in it. Here is an iron that he made for me. It is just wonderful.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2SisnrFP84Ytu39iOKSVgwKqPapYPaZqHyiA5Ob8H_7ufMlz_AxNNowDdd4UAqzcT16krc_vybrrcjrXGcO-H-XQvVn4Z8b2npXOxt9zodFrjm4vEJR3sr4oOkvTL2XHVMmlMwJ0iDmY/s1600/IMG_4522.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2SisnrFP84Ytu39iOKSVgwKqPapYPaZqHyiA5Ob8H_7ufMlz_AxNNowDdd4UAqzcT16krc_vybrrcjrXGcO-H-XQvVn4Z8b2npXOxt9zodFrjm4vEJR3sr4oOkvTL2XHVMmlMwJ0iDmY/s320/IMG_4522.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unfinished Blacksmith Forged Laminated Iron (left) O1 Tool Steel Iron (right)</td></tr>
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This plane has been a long time coming. So, I'll be talking more about this panel raising plane in posts to come and will eventually take pre-orders on them, as well. In the meantime, you can see a little clip of the plane in action in this <a href="https://instagram.com/p/3hhvyPAlvA/?taken-by=calebjamesplanemaker" target="_blank">Instagram post.</a> I'll put up the full video soon.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-20347045541825633282015-06-05T15:45:00.001-05:002015-06-08T08:21:54.379-05:00Now Taking Pre-Orders on Side Beading Planes!<span style="background-color: white; color: red; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">UPDATE: As of 6/8/15 -9:20 est- no more new pre-orders on this plane until next time. As always, THANK YOU for your enthusiasm! UPDATE</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Its official, I am taking orders on side bead planes again! I am limiting it initially to the most versatile and used size for furniture, the 3/16" size. If you are interested in the 1/8" or 1/4" shoot me an email. I will then see what I can do to work those sizes into the production schedule based on demand. </span></span></span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">I'll close pre-orders shortly so place your order in the <a href="http://107.161.29.156/shop/316-side-bead-plane/" target="_blank">shop</a> now. I begin production in two weeks and will be shipped upon completion there after. First shipments estimated week of July 13th.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">For the sake of new readers... My planes are made from stock that I cut, dry and season. It is American beech and the planes are made in a traditional 18th century style and construction. These are not four piece planes glued together here. They are solid one piece construction that will last a couple hundred years if you and your grandchildren store them properly. Once the stock is roughed out on the table saw, the making process is 99% completed with hand tools. The blades are Lie-Nielsen tapered moulding blanks that I profile and heat treat in house.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">Here is a short video of the 3/16" side bead plane in use.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;"><br /></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-83583606668884621962015-06-02T11:03:00.001-05:002015-06-02T11:38:57.764-05:00Riving and Steam Bending Videos With Peter Galbert + Book ReviewPeter and I had a great time with the class that was in the shop recently. I took the time to shoot a few videos and will be posting them up here in time. These aren't exactly instructional videos but you can sure learn a lot from these short clips. Pair this with his new book and you are not far off from making a chair.<br />
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Oh, by the way, here is an excerpt from my review of his <a href="http://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/chairmakers-notebook" target="_blank">new book from Lost Art Press</a>.<br />
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"If green woodworking knowledge were money then Peter Galbert would be a millionaire and if you said to him "show me d'a money" he would show you this book"<br />
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I think that was one of the excerpts found on the inside first few pages of the book. So honored to be included in that list along with other well know reviewers. So humbled.<br />
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I really liked what Disney said, "An instant classic"<br />
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Along with A. J. Roubo who said, "U<span style="color: #212121; line-height: 36px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">n homme après mon propre cœur</span></span>"<br />
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Enough out of me just watch the videos and enjoy!<br />
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If you like this and want to see more then stay tuned. I'll get a few more up, hopefully, sooner rather than later. Then again I could just quote Peter after six days of instruction and say "Its all in the book" :)Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-24201098160105374832015-05-29T12:16:00.000-05:002015-05-29T12:16:22.553-05:00What is a Mother Plane?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I get asked all the time at events where I demonstrate my planes - "How do you cut the profiles on the sole?"</div>
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The answer is easy...well, sort of. :) I start by making a plane that is exactly like I want my final production plane to be. I call this my prototype plane. I cut that profile with hollows and rounds along with rabbets and/or plow planes. However, I don't want to do that for every plane I want to make in the future because it would be tedious and take a really long time. Therefore, I use this prototype plane to make a mother plane which is essentially a "negative" of the profile I want.</div>
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I can then cut multiple plane soles with this mother plane, all of them being virtually identical. These planes that are made from the mother are then called daughter planes. It is a good process but it is tricky to make a good mother plane. It involves making planes with multiple irons in order to cut these mucho complex profiles.</div>
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I have been making these mother planes for quite some time now, and was thrilled to discuss them with Bill Anderson recently. He is in the process of studying a very large collection of antique mother planes and he told me that the original makers would typically combine multiple dedicated planes to make complex profiles rather than putting multiple irons in a single plane. I can see some advantage to this, but also some disadvantage. I may try this in the future for some other profiles, and look forward to seeing more from his research down the road.</div>
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Anyway, I put together some videos of the process. The first is a time lapse of the process and the others are the full, comparatively slow process. I hope you enjoy seeing how this is done.</div>
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Also there are a few of these Ogee and reverse Ogee planes left in the <a href="http://107.161.29.156/shop/" target="_blank">shop</a>.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-23380537077938003302015-05-26T09:35:00.000-05:002015-05-26T09:35:45.062-05:00Ogee And Reverse Ogee Moulding Planes Up for Pre-SaleHey all! I am sure you've been wondering where I have been off to for so long. Yep, you guessed it - making a load of 1/2" ogee and reverse ogee moulding planes.<br />
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If you have been wanting one, here is your chance. It has been a long haul on this run of planes and I am almost done with them. I am doing something different this time around. This time, instead of taking pre-orders before I even start and making you wait for months, you can place your order just a couple weeks before they are ready to go. There are limited quantities. (Do I even need to say that?)<br />
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You can place your pre-orders <a href="http://107.161.29.156/shop/" target="_blank">here</a> in the shop on my <a href="http://107.161.29.156/" target="_blank">new website</a> (...that is only partially completed, Sorry!). If you are on my wait list for a specialty wood ogee plane I will be emailing you directly.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ogee Moulding Plane</td></tr>
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<br />I should tell you that quite a lot of research has gone into these planes. First off, I had to establish what is and was traditionally the most used size of ogee plane. Consulting with the likes of Chris Schwarz helped me zero in on my size choices based on his knowledge of <span style="font-family: inherit;">tool inventories from probate records. Then I spent time with Bill Anderson crawling through his collection of Ogee planes to find some beautiful examples. Thanks you two! I appreciate how this community shares its knowledge. Lots of givers out there.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Oh and here's an </span>interesting<span style="font-family: inherit;"> factoid: All of these planes (and many to come) were </span>made<span style="font-family: inherit;"> from a stash of quarter sawn beech that I purchased from Tom Lie-Nielsen. Story is he, at one time, was going to make moulding planes. Plans changed and I scored some wood that had seasoned for many years.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reverse Ogee Moulding Plane</td></tr>
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<br /><span style="font-family: inherit;">I also researched the </span>plethora<span style="font-family: inherit;"> of ogee and reverse ogee plane profiles offered over the many years </span>that<span style="font-family: inherit;"> they were made </span>to<span style="font-family: inherit;"> settle on the proportion, angle, degrees of a circle for the </span>cyma,<span style="font-family: inherit;"> etc. for just </span>the<span style="font-family: inherit;"> right profile for furniture work. </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;"> </span><br />
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In short, I didn't want to make this plane until I felt completely comfortable that it was going to be really sweet. I feel good about these planes and I hope you do too.<br />
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Here is a peek at the planes in use in these YouTube videos. Enjoy!<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-72922250660929596162015-03-09T09:39:00.000-05:002015-03-09T09:40:19.526-05:00Racing with Roy Underhill A few weeks back I was guest demonstrating at the Lie-Nielsen tool event in Raleigh, NC. It was a nice venue and since it was in Roy Underhill's neck of the woods he came on over as well. The show went well and there was lots of time to try out planes of all sorts and Roy even brought along a couple of shave horses and a pole lathe for attendees to try out. I gave the pole lathe a go myself.<br />
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Anyhow, it seemed that there was going to have to be a race at some point. I mean when you get all those hand tool users in one place the egos really get going. I mean Roy got to talking about how he once cut a dovetail "this big" and I couldn't just stand by and listen to that. I jumped in and started talking about how my great granddad learned how to cut dovetails from Peter Nicholson. Next thing you knew Michelle Myers said she was related to Peter Nicholson. It was on. Time for a dovetail race.<br />
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To warm up though we started at the shave horses to size each other up on speed and agility.<br />
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I was determined to be the fastest, even thought the race wasn't even officially on yet, but even so it ended in a tie. The competition was fierce and those lining up to show their stuff was extensive.</div>
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Look at these guys go. Roy pulled some underhanded stuff and would distract the competitors just so they wouldn't qualify for the finals. That dirty dog.<br />
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First up for the dovetail race was Michelle Myers (Lie-Nielsen show staff) and Roy.<br />
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They started with the through dovetail joint. I can't say what happened fully but an "accidental" mix up in how many tails vs. pins to be cut somehow ended up in Roy's favor so he moved on to the next round.<br />
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Next up was Roy and I. I knew this would challenge all my chairmaking abilities to the full (seeing as the only dovetails cut by a chairmaker are on that little drawer under the desk and seat of a windsor writing arm chair). It was on!<br />
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This short video below shows the intensity.<br />
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So how did it end? I'll let you decide. One joint was prettier and one was faster.<br />
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Those watching called it a tie but a race is all about speed so Roy took the prize. Don't rub it in too much Roy!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGlMJxFJyfN1HwwE2_RxD-2QsmphFrekJAsMRHYEIbM20M22dpiojrzQiBZl1ZEIhE5rXEZOSkukgh-g8nH3K0GQnq12NBzBb-YifkNnsheIeHp3Uh-Rt4iIvwL74Hcfjcbb1uGMDyXdc/s1600/IMG_4087.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGlMJxFJyfN1HwwE2_RxD-2QsmphFrekJAsMRHYEIbM20M22dpiojrzQiBZl1ZEIhE5rXEZOSkukgh-g8nH3K0GQnq12NBzBb-YifkNnsheIeHp3Uh-Rt4iIvwL74Hcfjcbb1uGMDyXdc/s1600/IMG_4087.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With patch over one eye, half blind Roy shows off his finished half blind dovetail.</td></tr>
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Here I am still working away while Roy is already done. This picture makes me laugh every time I see it. Classic Roy!</div>
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Ok as you can see this was all in good fun. I hope we meet again and I get a second chance to test my skills against the legendary man himself. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-23625054993966240482015-03-07T15:02:00.000-06:002015-03-07T15:02:00.981-06:00Watch Peter Galbert Make A Windsor Chair In 30 Minutes!Some of you are aware that Peter Galbert made a windsor chair with Tommy Mac on his show Rough Cut. I, like many of you, asked Peter where you can see this online. He didn't know. Funny how these thing go, right.<br />
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Well as it sometimes (always) goes around my house. I can't find something and I ask my wife where it is then two seconds later she has found it! Really?!?! Same thing happened here. I swear she catalogs the internet in her sleep. Google should hire her. She can find anything online that I can't. Enough about that. The point is, if you wanted to see this episode and couldn't find it... here it is.</div>
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Don't forget, I am hosting Peter in my shop to teach chairmaking classes this spring<span style="font-family: inherit;">. </span>The class is 6 days. <span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">The first class starts April 20th for the fan back and May 4th for the ballon back.</span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 18px;"> These are the two chairs that are featured in his <a href="http://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/chairmakers-notebook" target="_blank">new book from Lost Art Press</a>. They are the foundation in your future in chairmaking. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">There is only one space left in the ballon back and a couple still left in the fan back. Don't miss the boat. It is going to be a great time! See the full details on the classes and how to register in this <a href="http://kapeldesigns.blogspot.com/2015/01/windsor-chairmaking-classes-with-peter.html" target="_blank">previous post</a>.</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">Enjoy the video!</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://vimeo.com/117273487">RC504 Windsor Chair</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/tommymac">Tommy Mac</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8561273513431850754.post-30029761583523692842015-02-10T07:28:00.000-06:002015-02-10T07:28:14.168-06:00Fan Back Windsor Chair Plans by Curtis Buchanan - Now Available!New windsor chair plans are now available from Curtis Buchanan for his fan back side chair. This is a beautiful side chair that is well suited to learning the craft of chairmaking as it is within the grasp of novice chairmakers.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh26_lrhDWaG1VLmP-BRYMUQiI8rE4_j0i_lFEr6Ym2TFUNyYX8hX1y3iPRcRwx7rSJZvo0SQpvc7Z0wNu5Mykfa803qRJGmqZn9HSqgjysXE9bCxGgHGZy5ziBOi-N0rSo-1vmrc2n-y8/s1600/Curtis+Buchanan+Fan+Back+Chair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh26_lrhDWaG1VLmP-BRYMUQiI8rE4_j0i_lFEr6Ym2TFUNyYX8hX1y3iPRcRwx7rSJZvo0SQpvc7Z0wNu5Mykfa803qRJGmqZn9HSqgjysXE9bCxGgHGZy5ziBOi-N0rSo-1vmrc2n-y8/s1600/Curtis+Buchanan+Fan+Back+Chair.jpg" height="400" width="265" /></a></div>
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Curtis has included double bobbin or bamboo style turnings in the plans and a simplified crest to compliment these turnings. There are also the baluster turnings and carved chest patterns for the more traditional look.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnivVKHBAOK47Sl0OS-_SKhTXo1MZ9ZMIgruira6TTBZ-OwWsAYrWQUmCjYNEqRrdsVVJoA1M-Q9J_EuBROVkdZfYlLw8jLRe76Lsjd2Awq1B76WZ4uL7m_1tRtlR3ZQiz7AvcBTJXYRI/s1600/Curtis+Buchanan+Fan+Back+Chair+Double+Bobbin+Tunings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnivVKHBAOK47Sl0OS-_SKhTXo1MZ9ZMIgruira6TTBZ-OwWsAYrWQUmCjYNEqRrdsVVJoA1M-Q9J_EuBROVkdZfYlLw8jLRe76Lsjd2Awq1B76WZ4uL7m_1tRtlR3ZQiz7AvcBTJXYRI/s1600/Curtis+Buchanan+Fan+Back+Chair+Double+Bobbin+Tunings.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
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The double bobbin turnings make the construction of the chair fit a more modern home interior as well as minimize the high level of skill needed to turn the baluster legs. They are also more easily turned in stock that is not green, which is easier for most of us to find.<br />
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Below is a video of Curtis explaining what is included in the plans.<br />
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To buy the plans visit his website <a href="http://www.curtisbuchananchairmaker.com/store/p12/Full-Scale_Drawings%3A_How_to_Make_a_Fan_Back_Windsor_Side_Chair.html" target="_blank">here</a>. They are $55.<br />
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Curtis and I have been producing plans for his windsor chair designs over the past few years. However, I have been so busy with my work that we decided to get the help of an illustrator that worked for Fine Homebuilding for many years and is well qualified. The plans just keep getting better and Chuck had some nice things to add to the drawings from his years of experience illustrating plans for magazine readers.<br />
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In the future I won't be at the helm producing the drawings but I will be offering assistance to the illustrator along the way. I hope to see Curtis continue putting his life's work down on paper. It would be a shame to see all his great work not be shared with everyone. So I encourage you to support him so that they can continue to be produced.<br />
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Happy chairmaking. Enjoy!<br />
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By the way. Peter Galbert's new book covers building a chair in this style so grab that too if you need the best advice out there on how to produce one of these chairs. Some really exciting things are happening for chairmakers - finally!!!!! :)<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03303473701895458319noreply@blogger.com1